Common Sense About Canes
Here’s one of the most common things I hear from people
about caning, summed up in one painful phrase: “I broke like three canes on that bitch. It was really a really hot scene.”
Breaking canes on your bitch does not make you uber-Sparkly-Domly-Dom. All genitalia-to-cane-size comparison
aside, it doesn’t make you an advanced or “serious” player either.
I really want to
tattoo this into some people’s skulls…breaking canes in scene isn’t cool. It’s stupid. And ignorant. And wasteful of natural resources like wood
and rattan.
(Huhuhuhuhuh. He
said “wood”.)
When you buy a care you look it up first, right? Volvo’s live a long time, but they aren’t sporty. Porsches are fast, but they suck gas like a
whore when the rent’s due. Mini-vans
have great interior room, but they’re “conformist”. Muscle cars look great and sound great – but
you’ll have to do tons of maintenance.
Canes are tools.
So are paddles. And spreader
bars, and bondage furniture, and vibrators and all the other lovely toys we use
in our lifestyle. They have a specific
use, a range of sensation they can cover, and a set lifetime.
See if you buy the cheapest vibrator on a site – don’t be
surprised if it doesn’t have much power.
If you buy a steel paddle, don’t be shocked if it does serious damage to
your beginning-submissive’s hide. And
if you buy a light weight cane, don’t be shocked when it breaks as you use it
for heavy duty caning.
Caning has a technique to it. A skill set.
Learn the techniques, and you’ll get your money's worth (and your kink's worth) out of
every cane you ever buy. Just go
whacking away on asses with them – and you’ll go through a LOT of these toys
before (probably) giving up on canes.
Materials:
Wood. Wood canes
are a warm up on heavy masochists, a Victorian sexy prop for scene play, and a
wicked, affordable cane for beginners. But
if you use a wooden cane like it’s a poly cane you’re going to wind up feeling
cheated by the scene and the cane. They
create beautiful welts, and a sharp nasty sting that anchors you right down
with Authority (by god!).
Wood canes should also be cared for, occasionally rubbed
with linseed oil to keep the wood flexible.
Dried canes can crack – so if your cane breaks, it’s either being used
too hard, or it was allowed to go dry. They
do tend to be the lower end of cost, in terms of canes.
Rattan. Rattan
canes are also basic. They’re lighter
than most woods, with a higher flexibility.
They can be used for heavier play (in thicker widths), but they need to
be cared for to get the most out of them.
They don’t have the same strict-straight-authority as wood, but they are
definitely nice to have. They can be a
lot more forgiving when the cane is wrapped or hits at a bad angle.
Rattan also requires caring for – again, linseed oil rubbed,
and the occasional sanding to allow the oil to penetrate more deeply. They also tend to be the lower end of
expense, in terms of canes.
Acrylic, AKA Lucite.
There are going to be people (generally sales people) who will tell you
Acrylic is no different than Delrin or Poly. Smack them.
Hard. Acrylic is on the lower end
of cost for canes, for a reason.
Acrylic has some major differences, from the kink
perspective. Acrylic has a tendency to
shatter or crack with repeated hard impacts.
But…acrylic stays clear, and attractive, for longer than poly. It makes
great designer canes, and transmits light well for “rave” canes. It bends with more forgiveness than poly
too. Poly picks up scuffs quickly compared to
acrylic. And acrylic is definitely less expensive.
Delrin, AKA Acetal resin.
Delrin canes are made from an extruded acetal resin, which means they
are extremely flexible, with great resistance to stress damage. So you can use them heavily – as long as you
aren’t wrapping them, and as long as you check them every few play times to
make sure they’re still bending properly.
Delrin canes are for heavier play, and heavier
masochists. You wouldn’t want to use
Delrin for a warm up (unless they’re an iron-ass), or for a beginner – but you
wouldn’t want to use wood or rattan for a heavy masochist either. Delrin
canes require no care other than the occasional check to make sure they haven’t
started wearing out. They are in the
mid-range of cost, for canes.
Polycarbonate, aka Lexan. Poly canes are heavier than both Delrin and
acrylic. It ranges, depending on the
person making it, from heavy and flexible, to hard and heavy as a rock. (Poly on the hard end is what they make
bulletproof glass from.)
Poly canes are great because they really leave a heavy
and deep impact. They bounce enough
that you can get a repeating pattern of impacts going quickly. Again, it’s not a warm up or beginner toy –
but great for repeating use. Again,
poly canes require no major ongoing care.
They are in the mid- range of cost, for canes.
Fiberglass.
Fiberglass canes are, literally, a bitch. They have a a weight and density that rivals
metal canes. Fiberglass canes are unforgiving
and like the wooden canes they have Authority to them. That said, they can get brittle over time -
look over the cane every few months to make sure it hasn’t developed cracks or
wear. They tend to run on the mid-range in cost, and
require more skill to use than a wood or rattan cane.
Metal. Aluminum and
steel canes are for serious masochists.
Aluminum is light weight (most blends, at any rate), while remaining
stiff. (Yes, I said stiff. Reeeally stiff.)
Steel has more weight than aluminum, with similar…stiffness. They both cause deep penetration trauma,
resulting in some pretty wicked bruises.
They are not for beginners, or warm up – these are canes to build up
to! They tend to run in the higher
range of cost.
Exotics and Designer Canes. These are case by case. Ask what material they’re made out of – most
of the “designer” in Designer cane is in the handle, in lighting through the
shaft, or in personalization. Worth it,
if you want your own style. View the
makers of Designer canes (KJ Canes is one of the best) as artists – when you
have the money, their work is worth every penny.
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